- Pamela Tucker
- Apr 5
- 8 min read
ReCon NYC: A New Chapter for Resale
On Thursday and Friday, April 2nd and 3rd, ReCon NYC held the first conference focused exclusively on the resale industry in New York City. The two organizers, Aleksija Vujicic and Anna Z. Gray did a fantastic job curating both the topics covered and the speakers presenting.
While it may not have been intentional, I found the event’s location to be perfectly in sync with the spirit of secondhand, reuse, and redesign. The event was held at the Starrett-Lehigh Building on West 26th Street in Chelsea. Occupying an entire city block, the building opened in 1931 as a massive freight terminal for the Lehigh Valley Railroad. However, its journey to becoming a modern office building was a long one.
Following its initial success and as railroads diminished in popularity, the rail lines were eventually removed and the building went through decades of different owners and occupancy levels. It wasn’t until a sale in 1998 that the building began pivoting toward the creative and digital sectors. When it was sold again in 2011, further extensive renovations were made to create office spaces for tenants and beautiful and well thought out facilities for events, transforming the industrial bones of the structure into a sophisticated modern space, and from the location of the conference there were great views of the Hudson River!
In a fitting connection to the conference, the luxury handbag reseller Fashionphile has its New York flagship located right in the building. In fact, the company's founder and President, Sarah Davis, spoke at the event. Her comments about Fashionphile’s move into live shopping were particularly informative. For example, she noted that buyers on TikTok tend to be more deal seekers when compared with those purchasing through Fashionphile’s other channels.
Speakers and Topics
The speakers brought a range of perspectives from across several industries, representing resale platforms and marketplaces, brands, technology resale companies and businesses aiding resale.
A central theme that resonated across the two days was agreement that while the resale sector is undeniably growing, a primary challenge now is navigating the path toward sustainable, profitable growth. Several other major themes emerged throughout the discussions:
Resale as a Primary Choice: Resale is no longer just an afterthought; it is increasingly becoming the first option for consumers when deciding where to make a purchase.
Value is Key: Value is a significant motivator, yet it isn't always the sole reason people choose to shop secondhand.
The Thrill of the Hunt (Deals vs. Uniqueness): The "hunt" draws two distinct types of shoppers: those seeking a great deal on a coveted brand or item, and those searching for a unique, one-of-a-kind piece where price is often not the primary concern.
Sustainability is a Factor, Not the Only Factor: While environmental concern is a factor, it is rarely the main reason for a purchase; the product must still fulfill a practical need or functional requirement for the buyer.
Supply Constraints: Despite the booming demand, the industry is currently facing a constrained supply of desirable inventory that meets the diverse needs and price points of the current market.
Marketplaces and Brands
Historically, marketplaces and resale platforms such as ThredUp, Poshmark, Depop, The RealReal, and Vestiaire Collective have been the dominant engines of growth. While these platforms will likely continue to lead the industry in terms of volume and reach, the ecosystem is diversifying as more brands begin to explore their own dedicated resale programs.
While quantitative data on specific brand programs was not disclosed, ReCon NYC provided insightful perspectives on how these initiatives are moving forward. Technology resale companies that partner with brands to build these platforms were well represented. These partners work with brands to tailor the experience, whether it is a peer-to-peer model (where the seller ships directly to a buyer) or a managed model (where the brand takes possession of the item).
I have listed the names of resale technology companies below that presented, and in parentheses, I have added a few examples of brands each company is known to work with (Note that these specific brand names were not provided by the speakers at the conference):
Archive (Lululemon, Dr. Martens, The North Face)
Reflaunt (Balenciaga)
Treet (Favorite Daughter, Dôen, Portland Leather)
Trove (Patagonia, Steve Madden, Michael Kors)
From Hesitancy to Interest
For the most part, luxury brands are not yet invested in the resale market. In a few instances, their primary engagement has been through the legal system! High-profile cases such as Chanel v. The RealReal, Chanel v. What Goes Around Comes Around (WGACA), and Gucci v. Lord & Taylor have been closely watched as they navigate the complexities of the secondary market.
However, tiers below luxury that had previously resisted are now becoming parties to resale. Historically, the leading reasons for brand resistance included:
Concerns regarding a negative impact on brand image.
Fear of cannibalizing the sale of full-price items.
Unknown or unreliable access to quality and authentic items.
Uncertainty over where to sell the items (e.g., separate sites vs. in-store).
The Logic of Brands Embracing Secondhand
The movement toward embracing secondhand is driven by several emerging points. Some speakers noted that when a customer sells or consigns a pre-loved item back to a brand, they often spend significantly more than the face value of the store credit received. One speaker noted the eventual spend with the brand can be up to seven times the amount of the proceeds. (Note that payment methods, strategies, and how the seller is compensated vary across different brands and programs.)
Additionally, these programs can act as a gateway. While specific examples or brand names were not provided for this point, it was noted that those buying secondhand items from a brand do transition into becoming full-price shoppers. There is also the pragmatic realization that these brands are already being sold on marketplaces like eBay and Depop, so brands risk losing out on the customer connection if they don't participate.
While these developments are promising, the fundamental challenge remains: because resale is essentially a "single SKU" business, it is difficult to scale and will require a continued, rigorous focus on operational costs.
The Role of AI in Resale
AI was mentioned in almost every ReCon NYC session. It was framed as both a way to control or lower the costs mentioned above and as a potential growth driver. A few of the current and expanding applications include:
Authentication: Speeding up the process and improving accuracy through proprietary systems built by resellers, which helps in managing this labor intensive process.
Listing Descriptions: Speeding up the workflow for the "single SKU" business model by automating data entry.
Shopper Tools: Enhancing discovery and personalized search to help shoppers locate the specific items they are looking for, whether those items are common staples or one-of-a-kind finds.
An especially interesting point raised is that as brands use AI to bring about better inventory planning, there could ultimately be fewer goods produced or left over. This efficiency could limit the future supply of secondhand items, a significant consideration, as the current mindset is for exponential growth..
Live Shopping: Gaining Momentum
Live shopping for resale on platforms such as TikTok and eBay is gaining momentum. While it can be a way to build community, it remains to be seen if this level of engagement translates into consistent, profitable growth. A particularly insightful session on this topic was presented by Max Lightman, President of Linda’s Stuff and son of the company’s founder, Linda Lightman.
Linda Lightman founded the business over 20 years ago and has become one of eBay’s most successful top sellers. From time to time for more than a year, I have tuned into Linda’s Stuff noon auctions on eBay. These auctions are often dominated by luxury items, and I find Linda’s presence particularly engaging; she talks with the hosts and interacts with the audience by reading the texts in the show’s chat, which makes the experience feel personal and approachable.
Max provided a look at how Linda’s Stuff navigated this emerging shopping channel after being approached by eBay. They were initially reluctant and chose to enter the space slowly. Today, Linda's Stuff has 23 live shows a week, and live selling now accounts for approximately 44% of the company's sales, a significant growth rate achieved in just three years. Max offered several key tips for those entering the live sales space:
Operate Like a Media Company: Given the complexities of the technology, the rigid scheduling, and the talent involved, success requires shifting your mindset. You are no longer just running a retail resale operation; you are operating a media production company.
Curation and Pricing are Key: Shows must be well-planned. Knowing the minimum price you are willing to accept before the show begins is essential for a smooth execution.
Shopping as Entertainment: Consistency is critical for building a following. Shoppers come to rely on the show appearing at a specific time; if you only have one show, it should be at the same time and day so your audience knows where to find you.
Seeking a Human Connection: Shoppers aren't just looking for items; they want to connect with your brand and want to feel comfortable interacting.
Building Trust is Critical: Reliable service is the bedrock of live sales. It is understood that if a seller cannot establish trust, sales will likely fall and negative word-of-mouth will follow.
Hosts are Your Brand: Since hosts are the face of the business, they must be a good fit—approachable, eager to answer questions, and willing to try on items like handbags or sunglasses to demonstrate scale.
ThredUp 2026 Resale Report
Another highlight of the two days was a presentation by James Reinhart, the CEO of ThredUp. He was the event's first speaker, and it was fitting as the Company's highly referenced annual resale report was unveiled at ReCon NYC. ThredUp's 14th Annual Resale Report was released to the public as well. Conducted by GlobalData, a third-party retail analytics firm, the Report is derived from market modeling, a survey of 3,268 U.S. consumers, and insights from 50 top fashion retailers and brands.
I highly recommend reviewing the Report. Meanwhile, below are a few interesting points:
In the US, resale grew 13% from 2024 to $30 billion in 2025, while the new apparel market grew just 3.6%.
Between 2025 and 2030, the secondhand market in the US is to grow 7.3% to $78.8 billion, a CAGR of 7.3%.
Between 2025 and 2030 on a global basis, the secondhand apparel market is projected to reach $393 billion, a CAGR of 9% and growing more than 2X faster than the overall apparel market.
52% of Gen Z and Millennials now attempt to resell more than half of their closets.
58% of retailers agree that lacking a resale presence creates a permanent structural disadvantage.
60% of customers say resale value is a key factor when buying new apparel, up 13% from the previous year.
Conclusion
Marketplaces and platforms have established secondhand as a mainstay, and resale is on track to continue outperforming the revenue growth of the traditional fashion market. As more brands find their own ways to participate, whether by building their own programs or partnering with existing platforms, the industry’s landscape continues to broaden
ReCon NYC provided a great look at these timely topics (and others not covered here, such as regulations and rentals) and was superbly executed. I hope another one is planned for next year!
Full Disclosure: The content in this post is based on my personal opinions and experiences. It is intended for informational and entertainment purposes only and should not be considered professional advice. Specific research for this post was conducted between
April 2, 2026 and April 5, 2026. Information about this conference is not a comprehensive review. If it were, this would be a very long post! I have not received any compensation for writing this post. The yellow and blue image "Update: Fashion Resale News" was created by Gemini AI Pro.
